Does your child also want their own pony? With these step-by-step instructions for a children’s horse made of wood, you can make his dream come true.
With the instructions for the “Big Uncle” children’s horse from the toom hardware store , you can easily build a wooden horse yourself. The long mane and tail not only look particularly real, they can also be groomed – just like a real horse. There is enough space in the pony’s belly to stow the saddle and blanket. The handles used to open the hatch serve as stirrups. Another plus: This horse does not need a large pasture.
You need this:
- Frame, spruce/fir, planed (slats), 24 x 44 mm, 700 mm, 14 pcs.
- Frame, spruce/fir, planed (short slats), 24 x 44 mm, 170 mm, 2 pcs.
- Spruce/fir frame, planed (planks), 24 x 94 mm, 700 mm, 8 pcs.
- Frame, spruce/fir, planed (legs), 74 x 74 mm, 780 mm, 4 pcs.
- Multiplex panel, birch (front panel), 18 mm, 400 x 600 mm, 1 pc.
- Multiplex panel, birch (rear panel), 18 mm, 400 x 600 mm, 1 pc.
- Multiplex panel, birch (top panel), 18 mm, 600 x 600 mm, 1 pc.
- Multiplex panels, birch (intermediate panels), 15 mm, 664 x 400 mm, 2 pcs.
- Hollow handles, nickel-plated (handle), 125 mm, 2 pcs.
- Countersunk screws, stainless steel, 4x40mm, 8 pcs.
- Countersunk screws, stainless steel, 4.5x50mm, 79 pcs.
- Countersunk screws, stainless steel, 3.5x20mm, 24 pcs.
- Carriage bolts, M8, 110mm, 8pcs
- Hexagon nuts, self-locking, M8, 8pcs.
- Body washers, M8, 8pcs.
- Hinges, 60x60mm, 2pcs.
- Gasket hemp (mane and tail), 2 bundles
- Webbing, black-yellow (harness), 25mm, 2.1 running meters
- Eyelets and washers, large, 14mm, 4pcs.
- Eyelets and washers, small, 8mm, 5pcs.
- Magnetic catch, 2 pcs.
- toom 2in1 colored paint, black, 0.25l
- Car carpets (saddle), 2 pcs.
- Anti-slip tape, 1 pc.
- folding rule, pencil
- Cordless screwdriver, 5 mm and 8 mm wood drill bits, countersink, 15 mm Forstner bit
- Screw clamp, sandpaper, rasp
- Jigsaw, chop saw and miter saw
- Hammer, open-end wrench (M8), staple gun
- Varnish pan and brush, masking tape
- Scissors, hot glue gun, duct tape
Have the slats (1 and 2), boards (3), front, rear, head and intermediate panels (5 – 8) cut to size at your toom hardware store. Round off all edges with sandpaper. Then mark the curves on the front and rear panels (5 and 6) and saw them out with a jigsaw.
Make horse head
Now draw a 50 x 50 mm grid on the headstock (7) and transfer the contours of the head to the grid using the drawing. Then saw out the head with the jigsaw. Now round off all cut edges of the front and rear plates (5 and 6) and the head plate (7) with sandpaper. Then drill the holes in the front and rear panels (5 and 6) as indicated. The 15 mm hole is intended for later attachment of the tail. The 8 mm holes are used to attach the legs later. Observe the positions very precisely here so that the distances later correspond exactly to the drill holes in the legs. You can also drill these holes later,
Saw the four legs (4) to 780mm at a 15° angle as shown. It is best to use a chop and miter saw for this. Using an 8mm wood drill bit, drill the two holes exactly through the center of the legs (4) at the indicated locations. Generously round off all edges of the legs with sandpaper or a rasp. Drill 5mm holes through the slats (1) and boards (3) as shown so you can later attach them to the front and rear panels (5 and 6).
Danger! Two boards (3) are not pre-drilled, since the flap will later be made from them.
Screw the body
Screw together the body from the front, rear and intermediate panels (5, 6 and 8) and use the 4.5 x 50 screws (11) for this. Then attach the headstock (7) 11 to the body. Also use the 4.5×50 screws (11).
For the tail, take a bundle of Gasket Hemp (17) thick enough to just fit through the 15mm hole in the Tail Plate (6). Push the hemp through the hole and wrap it liberally with cloth tape so it can’t slip out again.
Plank the seat
Plank the body as shown with the pre-drilled slats (1) and boards (3). Screw on the first board (3) so that it is flush with the lower edge of the lower intermediate plate (8). Fasten the next three boards (3) at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The slats (1) that now follow are fastened directly next to each other without any spacing. Use the 4.5 x 50 screws (11) to screw it on. The last two boards (3) are mounted as a flap in the next step.
Use the two boards (3) that you did not pre-drill to make the flap. Place the two boards (3) next to each other at a distance of 5 mm and screw on the short slats (2) with 4 x 40 mm screws (10) as shown. The short slats must be flush with the top edge of the top board (3). Fasten the flap by screwing it to the board (3) above with the hinges (16). Use the 3.5×20 screws (12). As a stirrup, you attach a handle (9) in the middle on both sides – not with the enclosed screws, but with the 3.5 x 20 countersunk screws (12). Tape the top of the handles with anti-slip tape. Mount the magnetic catches (21) with the enclosed screws at a suitable place on the lower intermediate plate (8) and the corresponding plates with the 3,
Then screw the legs (4) to the body. To do this, the carriage bolts (13) are inserted through the legs (4) and the front and rear panels (5 and 6) as shown and tightened from the inside with the body washers (15) and the self-locking nuts (14). The headstock (7) is clamped between the front legs (4). If necessary, bevel the edges of the legs with sandpaper.
Cut a 1,500 mm and a 400 mm long piece from the webbing (18). Use it to make the dishes as shown. Use the small eyelets (20) to connect the segments (note the instructions on the eyelet packaging). Connect the two car carpets (23) using the large eyelets (19) in four places to form one large carpet – place this over the 18/20 back of the horse as a saddle. Now attach a handle. To do this, cut a 200 mm long piece of the webbing (18) and attach a small eyelet (20) to each end. To attach the handle, loosen the front screws of two upper slats (1) and screw them back in through the eyelets of the handle. Paint the lower ends of the legs (4) with black paint (22) to indicate hooves. Tape the legs with masking tape to get a clean edge. Drape another bundle of sealing hemp (17) as a mane on the upper edge of the headstock (7) and staple the hemp to the headstock (7) at certain points. Finished!